I think I can finally say that I understand the Tico phrase “Pura Vida.” It literally translates to “pure life” but means so much more than that. For the Ticos and those living here for extended periods of time, Pura Vida is a way of life. It’s a way of looking out at the world and affects not only how one views the world, but also how one lives day to day and allows the world to continue on as it does. Pura Vida means being laidback, flexible, and enjoying the pure and simple things in life. Rather than getting caught up in the next big gig or how to make the next million or buy the newest and hippest car, home, or cool new trainers, Pura Vida is getting up at 5 in the morning to walk down the gravel, dirt road to watch the sun rise behind the volcano and then spend the morning fishing for sabilo and guapote in Lake Arenal. Pura Vida is laughing, smiling, eating beans and rice, and enjoying the company of others, despite the fact that you are all sadly broke and most likely also in debt. That doesn’t matter. All will work out, family and friends top the list of priorities, and every adventure and experience is jumped at, because well, why not? The sun is shining, the volcano is clear, there’s work to be done and get done it will, but why not spend a few more hours trying to catch a fish or go for a leisurely walk through the pouring down rain because it just doesn’t really matter. Who said being soaked was a bad thing? I’m enjoying my conversation with you, why should we end it on account of a sporadic rainforest downpour? Make do with what you have, rather than making dues to seek after what you do not have and don’t really need. Yes friends, Pura Vida is the way to be. And what better place to Pura Vida than right here in the middle of such a tranquil, incredibly gorgeous country where the people are friendly and the nature is supreme. I may be getting onto a plane and flying out of here in 5 days, but something within me tells me that Pura Vida is not over. This chapter is not yet completely written. I think there’s more here. Whether that means I return to live and work, or simply adopt Pura Vida as my own way of life wherever I am in the world, or come back and visit from time to time for extended periods, or, as is the case with Chile, constantly remember and dream about this place and dream about returning one day, I’m not sure where my path is headed.
These past couple weeks at John’s have redeemed
Where to begin? We’ve been working quite a bit at Pizza John’s, but it definitely has not felt like work (note to self: find a paying job that doesn’t feel like work) We get up, walk the dogs around Lake Arenal, greet the morning and lately, have also been fishing. I caught a 12 oz sabilo this past Friday with a tasty piece of guava I found fallen on the ground. 
When I was young we lived next to a drainage pond, “the lake” as we affectionately called it, and I first tried my hand at fishing for blue gills and pretending I lived on the ocean whenever the lake would diminish a bit and sand muck would appear. However, every fish I caught we always caught and released. Once I had reeled in my catch of the day, I had to finish the job by smashing a rock onto its head—multiple times because Sammy Sabilo really did not want to die. What a fighter! It was sad, but necessary as part of the circle of life. I also descaled and gutted it once we got back, which was a deliciously disgusting experience. There’s nothing like pulling fish intestines out, or finding remnants of the guava I’d used to catch it still partway in its mouth. Mmm! It’s in the freezer now, waiting to be eaten. Can’t wait…! Living off the land—check. Documenting and experiencing the sunrise again—check.
We went into Fortuna to get supplies and on the way back, John let me drive his 1973 Mustard Yellow Land Rover over the dirt roads around the lake. It’s stick 
shift, which I have driven before but it had been a while. That car is such a tank, it was fun maneuvering it around the twists and turns and over huge rocks and bumps in the road and up into the mountains a bit. Driving in a foreign country—check. Working on my manual transmission skills—check.
A couple weeks ago Isaac and I drug out John’s two kayaks and thoroughly cleaned them. We had a few hours to enjoy life more the other day so I took one out and enjoyed exploring the various inlets, watching the birds fly in and out of the trees around me as the rains came and went, and paddled tranquilly across the flat, glasslike water. I even found an inlet where some gorgeous river was pouring into the lake. Apparently 60% of all of
The volcano has been more active than usual lately, but also very clear. I have more pictures of the lake and volcano than necessary but hey, it never looks the same! There’s always something new to explore/see, dontchaknow. The other night the power went out and some of the ice cream started melting so John made it my duty to finish off one of the large buckets of coconut ice cream. I gladly obliged and carried it down to the lakeshore, munching along with a solar light from the garden since I didn’t have my headlamp at the time. I watched the red hot lava flow down the side and listened to the occasional rumble from within the great behemoth in front of me. The lake was so clear that night that I could see the reflection of the volcano and lava within the lake, along with faraway lightning crashing in the distance. It was a gorgeous night, and the stars were pretty sweet as well. Unable to be photographed, but rather to be forever ingrained in my memory as a pura vida moment. Check.
I just got back from taking the kayak out again, this time with a fishing pole and some fallen guavas. I made it my goal to cross from one side of the lake to the other, as close to the volcano as possible. A little over halfway there the winds picked up and threatened to blow me in the opposite direction but I paddled on! 
I finally made it to the swampy reeds surrounding the edge of the volcano and tried to fish a bit, out near the middle. That didn’t work out so great so I started towards the nearby inlets. I just so happened to look towards my left as I paddled along and saw a huge wave of rain headed my way! Luckily the rain wasn’t too bad and actually felt kind of good and relaxing as I headed towards some hopefully fish-filled inlets of the lake. Eventually I reached one and cast my line. Just as I was about to give up and head back, I got a bite! That bite turned into a catch and I reeled it in, threw it into the kayak and paddled as fast as I could towards the inlet shore, holding it down with my feet. I hopped out and crushed it as fast as possible, cleaned out the kayak, and took a few pics then headed towards home. I drug the kayak, fish, and fishing supplies up and out of the water and across the barrio, with everyone watching me. I wasn’t too worried, I’m pretty sure I already have the reputation as the crazy gringa who wanders around at all hours, stalking the volcano, sometimes carrying fish, usually wearing rubber boots, never without a smile on her face. I’m not sure how big this last fish was but it was slightly smaller than the one I caught on Friday. Regardless, we ate all the fish for dinner tonight with salad and rice and it was taaaaasty! Nothing like eating fish you caught and killed yourself. Check.
Aside from gaining life experiences, I’ve also been gaining more life experiences by working at Pizza John’s. I’ve been perfecting my pizza dough skills as well as working on not pulling the pizza out of the oven before it has a perfectly crispy crust. I serve, make, wash dishes, and imagine new foods into life. Last week I created the Tica Pizza—a combination of bananas and pineapple, ham optional. I have yet to convince any guests to try it, but we all love it anyway! More for us. Andrea has been baking a lot while I’ve been kayaking and wandering around from place to place—we’ve had cinnamon rolls, ice cream sandwiches, and all sorts of goodness in that realm. We aren’t paid but we do get tips, which is exciting and if I could live off of tips alone I would be set, and probably stick around for a few more weeks at least. I feel a part of this business now, not only as the business that it is but the community. The community created amongst those that work and live here, as well as those in the surrounding area that come to eat or invite us over or just stop by to chat. I know these people now, and they know me. We wave while going down the street and I greet my neighbors each morning as I head out to fish or run down to the street to see how clear the volcano is. I've definitely met some incredible amazing people, with awesome stories to tell while I've been down here, which has undoubtedly enriched and improved my entire experience and perspective.
Hopefully I won’t jinx it, but there has actually been less rain these past couple weeks than at the very beginning when we arrived way back in late June. It seems so long ago, almost like I’ve been here always, yet also seems so short. I guess that’s a good feeling. Anyway, it has been sunny and the volcano has been incredibly clear and while it has still rained, and rained quite significantly, it isn’t as oppressive as it was, nor does it rain for as long as it did. Yay! However, I now no longer really mind when it rains and rarely carry my raincoat. It just doesn’t matter to me if I get wet. The other day I went for a walk and was secretly hoping that it would start to downpour while I was walking. It eventually did rain decently hard, but I didn’t get as soaked as I wanted to. Call me crazy…I guess rain to me is now just a part of this whole experience, this whole Pura Vida, rain is a part of this world that I find myself in and it makes me feel alive to allow it to penetrate my non-waterproof clothing. My clothes will be dry in a few days anyhow. :)
More adventures ahead! Sorry if I don’t write you back or post pictures or really communicate much in these next few days, I rarely get online anymore—there’s too much to see and do as opposed to sitting in front of a computer screen. We’ll chat soon! I’ll do all that once I get home again. And while it may not sound like it, I am excited to come home. Even if it is just for a bit, I am excited to see you, if not very soon, hopefully soon enough. I’m excited to say hello, have a cell phone, ride my bike for miles along country roads, enjoy the sights sounds and smells of fall time, bake with exotic ingredients, and search for Pura Vida in central Indiana—does it exist? There’s always more to explore, wherever I may be.
Oh, and I am an official college graduate! Verdict says that is quite a bummer, those were 4 quite incredible years that I will never forget. Homecoming in 3 weeks! :)
“It takes some silence to make sound/ And it takes a lost before you found it/ And it takes a road to go nowhere/ It takes a toll to show you care/ It takes a hole to see a mountain…Life is wonderful/ life goes full circle/ life is meaningful/ life is so full of love…” --jason mraz, life is wonderful.
1 comment:
sounds like you've found your place! The slow, meandering pura vida. Get stuff done when needed, but enjoy adventure as well. Sounds like a beautifully simple and fulfilling life. I think you are destined to be a ex-pat girl... Have any business ideas yet?
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